The watch showed 5.30 PM. It was a hot summer evening in Iraq. The sun was setting, painting the sky in an orange hue. And there I was, standing before the gates of a place like no other that I had ever visited. Only the dead have seen the end of war. That was the quote that came into my mind as I stood before the largest cemetery of the world. ' Wadi-al-salaam ' or ' The Valley of Peace ' as they call it! It was my unplanned visit to Baghdad and then to Najaf that had finally brought me there. Ever since my childhood, after I came to know about that place, I had a curiosity about visiting it someday. If you look up for images of that place on the internet, you would fail to think of it as a graveyard at the first glimpse. I felt like it was a huge city with millions of houses lying in close proximity. There are in fact around 5 million graves there but that city has no living members. It is at the second glimpse that you notice the beauty of it; which I think would be ...